NORTHERN EVIA

Leaving behind you Chalkis and Messapia, you meander up the bends of Agios. Along the entire trip, up to the highest point, picturesque taverns offer choice local meats and cheeses, and specialise in peasant spaghettis and their famed frying pan bread.

There is a wonderful pine forest, with arbutus, plane, elm and oaks trees that accompany your progress until you reach the height at which you find the first firs.

After the first few turns on the descent, you enter the infamous Derveni, in the past the most inaccessible and well defended position.

At 52 km into your journey you encounter Prokopi, a refugee village, which took its name from Prokopion in Cappadocia. In the past it was known as Ahmetagha. Today it is known throughout Greece as the site where the relics of Saint John the Russian, which the pious refugees brought with them during the exchange of populations.

From Prokopi you take the road that leads to Pili, and its wonderful beach, and continue along the Aegean coastline towards Vlahia and Sarakiniko.

Continuing along this road leads you to Mantoudi (seat of the Municipality of Kireos), through the dreamy landscape of the centuries old plane tree forest, along the bed of the Kireas river.

Greenery is rampant and the landscape is perfect for nature lovers and hikers. The beaches, too, are unique: Pili, Atalantos, Kymassi, Krya Vryssi: all reward even the most demanding visitors.

The area of Mount Kandili / the valley of Prokopi / the Delta of the Kireas River, a swathe which extends from the Northern Gulf of Evia to the Aegean, is of particular environmental interest and is listed in the NATURA 2000 Network (GR2420003). The region has a great variety of forested expanse, with deciduous as well as evergreen trees, with large numbers of local native plants – most of which are quite rare – as well as a variety of birds, particularly birds of prey.

At Kantili, as well as at Pyxarias, there are many interesting footpaths, for those who enjoy mountain hiking, and the inland settlements are also worth investigating. A major local point of interest is the only still operational water mill and water press, located at Spathari.

Points of interest:

· Museum of the Forest, at Prokopi

· Megas Platanos, a natural monument at Paraskevorema (on the road from Prokopi to Mantoudi)

· Sarakatsanic Cottage Museum at Mantoudi

· The fortification of Ancient Kerinthos

The journey continues through the Municipality of Elymnioi, and its seat in the beautiful nautical town of Limni (the ancient city of Elymnioi). Built to rise amphitheatrically up from the Northern Gulf of Evia, this town has a centuries-long history and a great naval tradition. Most people are unaware of the Prehistoric finds, the ancient cities, the monasteries – which are some of the oldest in the land – located on the site of temples that date back to the time of Homer, the remnants of Byzantine buildings, that exist alongside its island architecture.

Ancient Elymnion according to Thucydides, was most likely destroyed by earthquakes, as were the cities alongside it, Orobiae and Aegae.

The picturesque Historical and Folklore Museum of Limni is crammed full of the area’s rich cultural tradition and even includes a small archaeological collection.

There are many interesting agrotourism facilities in the general area of the Municipality of Elymnioi. You should seek them out.

Points of interest:

· Excavations of the Early Christian basilica at the centre of Limni

· The beaches at Limni and Rovies

· The church of Aghios Ioannis-Katounia

· The Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Galatakis on the foothills of Mount Kandili

· The Monastery of the Blessed David

· The Venetian Towerhouse at Rovies

· Stefani Castle, the ruins of a castle dating from classical times at Mourtias.

· The Tombazi Mansion at Kechries

· The waterfalls of the Drymon river

· The Rovies Agricultural Coopeartive, which is a model of good cooperative practice and collective effort

The Women’s Cooperative, which has traditional weavings.

The road continues along the coast to the famous spa Loutra Aidipsou (seat of the Municipality of Aidipsos), which Ancient Greek sources say were dedicated to Heracles (Thermae Herculeae).

This magical area is known around the world from ancient times for the benefits of its rich subsoil and the gifts brought forth from the depths of the earth.

Aidipsos can attract even the most discriminating visitors and lead them to discover the wonderful secrets behind its edifice. This is a welcoming town, full of life, with intense colours and strong aromas, gifting all visitors with serenity and intellectual clarity.

According to tradition it was colonised by the Ionians (as was most of Northern Evia), who named the city Ellopia, in honour of Ellops, son of Ion.

Later in Aristotle’s Meteorologica, the city was mentioned as Aidipsos. Plutarch described the social life that had developed in Aidipsos, how pleasant a stay in the city was, and what the entertainments were; he also praised the excellent nutrition with its wealth of fish and poultry. Strabo mentioned the appearance of new springs and their medicinal attributes.

From olden days Aidipsos was known for its copper foundries and this might be the reason why it is one of the few cities that had its own coinage. This coin, depicted by Rigas Feraios on his Charta, had a crab on one face and a fish on the other, symbolising the marine wealth of the area.

Besides the road network, the city is well served by ferryboat services from Arkitsa on the mainland coast of Fthiotida, as well as the ferries of Glyfas / Agiokambos.

Today there are more than 80 medicinal springs, whose temperature ranges from 28οC to 86οC. Their medicinal attributes have the reputation of being effective in curing various ailments.

The new Hydrotheraphy Centre run by the Greek National Tourism Organisation, as well as many modern hotels offer full spa capabilities.

Points of interest:

· The Aidipsos Archaeological Collection, at the GNTO Hydrotherapy Centre has a display of ceramics; coins; statue plinths bearing inscriptions; statues and relief sculptures found on recovery digs throughout the town, most of which are related to the thermae or spas and how they were in the Hellenistic and Roman Eras

· The Neoclassical building

the Aghioi Anargyroi spa, next to the contemporary GNTO Spa

· Roman Balnea / Thermae Sulla

· The Monastery of Aghios Georgios Elion, located at a magical spot, with an endless horizon and rich flora, on the hilltop of Valanti hill. This was previously the location of the temple of Apollo Phoebus Selountios, sun god (in Greek sun is Helios), giving its name to the nearby settlement.

· The beach at Aghios Nikolaos, a long beach with olive groves extending to the edge of the water, with a deep colour, two kilometres from the Baths.

· Yialtra, a picturesque fishing village on an inlet of the same name, with a cove that serves as a natural fish farm.

· Roman balnea on the beach of Yialtra.

Endless beaches, crystal-clear waters, pine tree forests touching the waves and spread out holiday homes, this is the idyllic image of the Lihada peninsula on the north-western point of Evia.

On the waters of the Evian and the Maliac Gulfs it faces Kallidromos, Oeti, and Othrys.

According to local mythology, the peninsula is part of the body of Lichas, who was slain by Heracles, while his head formed the Lihadonisia islands.

Using Aghios Georgios as its port and with regular ferryboat services to Aghios Konstantinos on the opposite coast, this town is a gift of nature to every visitor.

The region has a rich and fascinating history.

There is a host of small hotels and taverns that make a stay comfortable and pleasant.

Due to its natural wealth, the mild landscape and the complex ecosystem sustained in the region of Mount Telethrion / Lihada / Yialtra, it is included in the Natura 2000 Network (GR2420005), while the islets of Stroggyli (AT2011042), Monolia and Lihadies

(AT2011050) are designated as Landscapes of Exceptional Natural Beauty.

Points of interest:

· Point Kynaio

· The Lighthouse of Vassilina, a remarkable stone-built construction

· Lihadonissia: at Stroggyli the stone-built Lighthouse and the ruins of the Monastery of Aghios Grigorios. The organised beaches on the islet of Monolia

· Footpaths for hiking through the green countryside

· A Diving Centre that operates year-round, as well as boats for excursions to the Lihadonisia islands.

The journey through Northern Evia continues with Oreoi (seat of the Municipality of the same name). The name is taken from the ancient city of Oreos. The city was established by the Athenian generals Tolmides and Pericles in447 BC, when they settled land grants on 2,000 Athenian cleruchy. After the Peloponnesian War the city fell to the Spartans, who threw out the Athenians. Later, it was taken by the Macedonians and the Romans (200 BC).

It is a quickly developing tourist destination, with a handsome port, where one can enjoy a meal of very fresh fish. The village is renowned for the exceptional quality of the ouzeri on its beachfront.

Oreoi are a popular tourist destination. In the summer months, and during the winter – weather permitting – they are connected by boat to Trikeri and Volos.

Points of interest:

· The 4th century BC Marble Bull on the beachfront.

· The ruins of the ancient acropolis (parts of the wall are visible).

· Byzantine and Medieval fortifications

· The Byzantine church of Aghios Vassilios, which appears to have been built on the site of a pre-existing ancient temple.

· The Oreoi Archaeological Collection,

which is on display at the town hall on the beachfront, near the marble statue of a bull, and includes finds from the region, most of which date back to the Hellenistic and Byzantine eras.

· The Church of Panaghia Nisiotissa at Neos Pyrgos.

The surrounding area is ideal for fishing, either from the beach or by boat, along the Oreoi channel and off the lovely island of Argyronissos, which is just 2 nautical miles away.

Lovers of alternative forms of tourism, find opportunities for mountain cycling (around the villages of Kamatriades and Taxiarchis), as well as for horse riding. There are also many footpaths for hiking.

Next stop is Histiaia, seat of the Municipality of the same name. Its history also harks back to the Neolithic age, as a settlement from those times was located in the area. Homer makes reference to Histiaia polystaphyllos (rich in vines) as one of the cities of Evia in the catalogue of ships.

The area contains one of the few wetlands habitats in Eastern mainland Greece and as such has increased environmental interest. Mikro and Megalo Livari lagoons are important resting places for migratory and over-wintering birds. The largest population of otters lives here, and there are small expanses of alluvial and riverine forest, which have been designated Natural Monuments for Conservation. The grouping of Mikro and Megalo Livari – the Xiria Delta – and the Deciduous Forest of Agiou Nikolaou are part of the NATURA 2000 Network (GR2420004).

Kanatadika is a tourist resort, particularly during the summer months attracting tourists with the endless beach and picturesque taverns.

Equally interesting is the mountain region with picturesque villages nestled in vegetation and the thick forests.

You can also visit the Museum of Natural History, which is maintained, with great care and effort, by the Histiaia Hunting Club.

Artemisio is the seat of the Municipality of the same name. Its name used to be Kourbatsi.

In 1926 the name was changed in honour of the goddess Artemis, as it is believed that a temple in her honour existed at Aghios Georgios.

There still exist buildings from the years of Ottoman occupation and these give a particular flavour to Artemisio. Nature lovers can follow the gorge that starts up a short way out of the village, and is covered in plane trees, pines and walnut trees and leads to Agrilitsa. The view from here is magnificent, overlooking Pelion and the Sporades Islands.

Pefki is famous for its immense pine-tree covered sandy beaches and its crystal clear waters.

Passenger ships organise day cruises to the Sporades that leave from this port.

The statue of Poseidon of Artemision was fished out of the waters around Artemisio, as was the statue of a youth on a horse, which now on display at the National Archaeological Museum in Athens.

The headland of Artemisio was the site of a major naval battle in 480 BC, in the wars between the Greeks and the Persians.

The village of Gouves has a medieval tower, where the poet Georgios Drosinis used to live.

It is also worth visiting the lovely beaches at Asmenio, Ellinika, Agriovotano, as well as the renowned Psaropouli, the beach at Vassilika.

The journey through Northern Evia ends up in the region of the Municipality of Neleus. Aghia Anna (seat of the Municipality) is smothered in vegetation, and built as an amphitheatre, looking on the sea and the view of the Sporades across the sea.

Its name comes from the icon of Saint Anne in the church of the same name which is believed to cause miracles.

Archaeological investigations at Angali brought to light Paleolithic flint tools made using the Levallois technique.

Visitors to the Museum of Folk Art at Aghia Anna can admire the unique traditional dress of the region and become familiar with old customs and the way local inhabitants lived until recently.

Ayianna, as it is colloquially known, also gathers people from all over Greece for Carnival and the events of the connected festival of Apokrea, which are particularly colourful.

The atmosphere is truly Dionysian and visitors can enjoy wine and meze with the locals, and have the opportunity to enjoy themselves listening to some of the thousands of pejorative songs and verses, which are connected with the local tradition for this festival.

The Gorge of Nileas (Arapis) begins spectacularly in an area of immense natural beauty, about three kilometres west of Ayianna and leads, after a two-hour hike through water, to the bridge of Amelanta and five hours later to Kerasia.

The Kerasia Museum of Fossilised Mammals was inaugurated in September 2006, and is 6 kilometres west of the Chalkis-Histiaia road, north of Aghia Anna. It holds finds from investigations by the palaeontologists of the University of Athens; mammals that lived in Evia more than six million years ago. Fossils of Deinotheria, Helladotheria, Samotheria and Agylotheria, are surrounded by remnants of small mammals including ponies, bovines and boars, as well as carnivorous felines, samples of the exceedingly rare prehistoric fauna found in the region. These finds, suitably preserved by the University of Athens are display for the first time to the public in an original manner.

Visitors should also visit the wonderful and endless beaches at Angali (Aghia Anna) and Frangaki (Achladi).